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almostbasic — Sun, 28 Mar 2010 16:42:01 CDT

Custom-Motorcycles.WetPaint.com is all about custom motorcycles and information you can use to build your own custom motorcycle.

How To Build Your First Custom Motorcycle

You have made up your mind that you want to own a custom motorcycle, but you're not really sure how or where to begin. There are several things to consider before you start on your quest for that original, unusual, or unique custom motorcycle.

First, do you want to completely build a custom motorcycle from the frame up, or to modify an existing bike, or order one fully made to your specs? What size bike are you thinking about? Large, small or in the middle? Do you want speed & agility, or do you just want to look great while you cruise the highway? You will need to figure out how much money you can afford to spend in the long run & whether your ownership plan will most likely take you weeks, months or even years to complete.

Second, will you have the time to do the modification/customization on your bike yourself, or do you have the resources to have the work done for you. If you plan on doing your own work, (as most of us do) you will need to consider what tools you will need, where your work space will be located, how much help from like-minded friends you're likely to get, and your level and variety of skills. Last but not least, do you have the motivation and dedication to continue once you have started creating your own custom motorcycle?

Third, how much work needs to be done to a bike to make it a custom motorcycle anyway? This is a controversial argument. Some say it's not a custom motorcycle, unless you change out basically everything on the bike and others say changing just a few things makes it custom. This is the logical answer; make it uniquely yours in any way you want! Build it, modify it, strengthen it, lighten it, expand it, downsize it, make it more agile, paint it, build it up, or strip it down, just make it yours! If you've had it modified and it is no longer "stock", or you have modified it yourself, congratulations! You now own a custom motorcycle!

Fourth, get out there and ride!!

Cold Weather Motorcycle Riding Gear Options

almostbasic — Fri, 26 Mar 2010 21:24:58 CDT

I do not care how much everyone is yelling about Global Warming, cold is cold, and when you are riding during the winter, it feels even colder. Wind chill is awful, compound the factor of speed where the faster you go the more the temperature plummets. Using the following tricks, you too can survive the winter on your motorcycle.Many of you crazy riders enjoy cold weather, I will never understand that. Maybe it's because I'm a skinny man and I don't have much fat to hold in the heat. I live in the South for a reason, but even in the dirty dirty it gets cold from time to time. When the temperature goes down and the wind picks up I'm taking every article of warm clothing I can wear at once. If I look like the little brother from a Christmas Story when I'm done, so be it.

Hands, are the first line of defense, and Winter gloves are generally a good idea, something with Gore-Tex or Thinsulate is a plus. Just about every major motorcycle apparel manufacturer sells a winter glove, and most can be found for less than $80 with different degrees of protection and insulation from the elements. But aside from going out and purchasing a name brand glove, there are a few other steps you can take before you shell out a bunch of dough on specialty gloves.

Take a run down to either the local grocer, hardware, or auto parts store and pick up a box of disposable latex gloves. These are excellent for retaining your natural body heat. And because they are form fitting, you can wear them inside your riding gloves as additional insulation. Some people may have an allergy to latex, in which case sporting goods stores and outdoor outlets carry glove liners made of a variety of materials.

Even if you wear full gauntlet gloves, while in the riding position, and when you're moving around, your sleeves can creep up and let in the wind. Try a pair of wristbands, a great cheap trick for keeping the wind out of your sleeves.Heavy shirts are a must, but too much at once cannot only be uncomfortable, but can restrict movement. Thermal shirts are always a plus, combined with a sweater and lined jacket. Try one of those cool max shirts as a base layer. Anything that will wick away moisture from your body will keep you that much warmer. If your jacket lets some wind through in certain parts try and pin point the problems from the inside. The solution for this is simple... duct tape. Patch up the holes on the inside so the breeze cannot make its way through. A thin nylon windbreaker under the jacket or even your rain jacket over top can be a great help.

Your head and face are super sensitive. High quality full-face lids with closable vents are definitely the way to go. If you're in an area that sees a good amount of snow and really low temperatures, you may want to look into snowmobile helmets for the winter. The ones that come with heated visors are an excellent choice. Of course, one of the easiest ways to help keep your head warm, is wearing a beanie under your helmet. If that's too thick for a comfy fit, try the sporting goods and ski shops for balaclava's. The ones that are made of nylon are typically quite thin. There's always the standard bandana as well. This will at least keep most of the wind off your face, and your breath will keep your face warm. Keep breath mints handy though.

Another easy trick for cutting down fog and keeping in heat. If your helmet does not offer a breath deflector, you can make one out of duct tape. Double up the tape and form it to fit your face. Then, tape it right to the inside of the chin bar. Just be sure you do not leave any of the adhesive exposed, unless you want your face waxed while riding down the road.

Your feet and knees are always in the breeze. Ski socks are a definite plus. The longer they are, the better too. Insulated boots are really the best way to go, the less wind that can get in the better. An excellent piece of gear I found is motocross knee and shin guards, these are similar to hockey shin guards with plastic caps, foam padding and fabric liners. The great part about them, is that they are thin enough to wear under loose fitting pants. The plastic blocks the wind really well while the foam helps to keep in the heat. These are generally inexpensive too, they can be found for less than $40. For the rest of your lower extremities, double up on pants. Sweat pants, Track pants, thermals, etc.

Of course there is always the option of using heated riding gear. This can get pricey, but if you are going to ride in very cold climates, it is probably a wise investment. The cheaper solution is using hand warmer packs. They're fairly inexpensive and some last as long as 8 hours. If you plan on doing some long-distance trips, I would suggest getting a few. You can place them in your shoes to help keep your feet warm, in your gloves to help out your hands and anywhere else you feel could use a bit of warmth.

Lightweight Custom Motorcycle Wheels

almostbasic — Fri, 26 Mar 2010 21:24:11 CDT

One of the most valuable performance upgrades you can do to your custom streetbike, is to put on upgraded rims! I know, you see that these wheels tip the scales at like 10 pounds less than stock, so you're thinking, 10 pounds isn't going to warrant paying all that cash for light custom motorcycle rims. But the real important thing is not how much weight are you dropping, it is where is the weight you will be losing?

aftermarket rims will make a huge difference in the handling of your bike, acceleration and deceleration "braking" of your bike for the following reasons.

Non-Rotational Weight:
One ounce reduced from a rims total weight, is equal to 4 oz's taken off another part of the bike. Magnesium wheels will normally weigh about 10 pounds less than your factory aluminum wheels. This is equal to 40 pounds of weight loss on the bike, not too bad...

Rotational Weight:
This is the weight reduction on the outer lip of the rim and this is where the weight reduction makes a HUGE improvement. At 100mph, each ounce of weight removed here, is equal to having 25 pounds of weight taken off the motorcycle! This is actual weight that must be turned, accelerated, and stopped, and likewise, it will improve cornering, acceleration, and braking.

At any speed the reduction is relative to the speed of the bike. As you increase your speed the weight savings will increase exponentially. There are lots of types of lightweight custom motorcycle wheels out there, made in a variety of different materials, such as aluminum, magnesium, and carbon fiber.What to expect:

Most people who upgrade to light wheels, experience better acceleration, more responsive engine braking, "lighter feeling" in motion, and easier turning, with no perceivable stability loss. Due to their ability to start spinning so easily, many riders report being able to drift with the back tire through corners, but without any loss of control.

Conclusion:
Although they may be costly, I honestly believe that performance motorcycle wheels are an amazing modification for anyone wanting to get more performance from their streetbike. What other part can you get for your streetbike that provides you better handling, better braking, better acceleration, and better looks for that kind of money?

How To Purchase Your First Motorcycle

almostbasic — Fri, 26 Mar 2010 21:23:21 CDT

While you're looking for your first motorcycle, there are some things that you should look for. This article should help you out so that you or somebody you know will not get stuck with a lemon. I know it may be tempting to buy the 1st motorcycle you look at... do not! It's definitely a smart idea to search around and see what your options are, whether it's the cost, engine displacement, or the model or style of motorcycle that suits you. I recommend buying a pre owned motorcycle from a private seller via your local newspaper, or a classified website like Craigslist.org. Dealers are often very over priced for used motorcycles, as they price them up over bluebook value.

While you are looking for a motorcycle, make sure you bring a motorcycle savvy friend with you if you have one. Also, the hunt requires a specific set of "tools". I like to bring a flashlight and a little mirror with me when I am hunting for a motorcycle. Even in the daytime, a flashlight can be very helpful. Begin by looking at the overall "look" of the bike. Does it look shiny and new, or are there scratches and dents? Any signs of damage over the level of the foot pegs, could mean that the bike has been laid down or crashed. Then, move on to the tires. Do they look worn or cracked? Are they slicks or track take offs? Do they have a good amount of tread left? Inspecting the tires is a good way to tell what the motorcycle has been used for.

After you've looked at the body work and the tires, move on to the most important part of the motorcycle, the engine. Look for significant quantities of grease, oil, and dirt, if there is a good amount of any of these substances, it can have a lot to do with how well this machine has been maintained. If there'sthere is too much grease, oil, or dirt, it can be a sign of problems to come. If the bike is too clean, it could mean that the seller is trying to hide something from you. Just remember that a little dirt is normal. Look at the engine covers, are they OEM, or have they been replaced? You can tell a lot just by the style of covers that are on the motor. If the engine covers have a performance brand name on them, chances are they are not original covers. This could mean that the motorcycle you are checking out has been raced. Another way to figure out if it has in fact been raced, is to look at the heads of the bolts holding it all together. If they have holes drilled in them, the bike most likely has been raced. These holes are for small cables that go through the head of the bolt for safety reasons, and are required on most tracks.

Now check out the chain/belt and sprockets. They can tell you a lot about how the bike was ridden. If there are missing teeth on the sprockets, it could mean a few things. It can mean that the motorcycle has been ridden hard, or stunted. It can also mean that it really hasn't been maintained as well as it should have been. When checking out the chain/belt there are a few things to look for here as well. Is the chain rusty, has it been repaired, how much slack does it have? For a belt, the same kind of scenario, is the belt frayed, missing teeth, cracked or broken? Either way I would suggest getting a new one.

Inspect the frame carefully. Look at the welds to make sure that they aren't broken or cracked. Has the frame been modified, or repaired? This can be a tell-tale sign that the bike has been abused. Look for stickers on the frame that might be concealing damage, also check that the VIN number is stamped into the frame somewhere and matches the VIN on the Title, overlooking this can cause you a heap of trouble. If the inspection looks good, there's only one thing left to do. If the owner allows it, and you have never ridden before, or don'tdo not have a license yourself, have your friend take the motorcycle for a test ride. A simple test ride can tell you how the bike runs, and any quirks that may arise, and also show you how the bike responds performance wise, and to rider input. HAPPY HUNTING!